piagetdisc
I am a fairly experienced knitter, and think it would be so special to knit my own wedding dress. It will be a summer wedding, so something airy and lacy would be fine. I've searched the itnernet a bit and not found anything really special. Maybe you can suggest a book with a great pattern (even for a really beautiful dress that would work if I changed the color). Thanks!
Answer
You can buy a book from this site -- http://www.randomhouse.com/crown/catalog/display.pperl?isbn=9780307346407
3 patterns for sale here -- http://www.yesterknits.com/
"MARINA- As lovely as the royal princess for whom it is named. A cobwebby lace design knitted on large needles in an incredibly short length of time. In White Velveen it is the conventional bridal gown - in the brilliant velveen colors it is suitable for many other events."
Velveen Bridal Dress
Size 16
Materials:
1 pair M. M. No. 7 [as in 7mm diameter] Wooden Needles
1 No. 4 Steel Crochet Hook
Minerva Velveen White, No.1100, 8 balls
Scale:
2 knots to 1 inch
Bodice, Front-
Cast on 66 sts. P. 1 row. Pattern is worked on a multiple of 4sts. plus 2 sts.
Row 1- K. st., * pick up and K. next thread between sts., K. 1 st., pick up and K. next thread between sts., slip 1 st., K. 2 sts., pass slip st. over the K. 2 together, repeat from * across row, ending last st. K. 1.
Row 2- and all even rows, Purl (66 sts.)
Row 3- K. 1st., * slip 1st., K. 2 together, pass slip st. over the K. 2 together, pick up and K. the next thread between sts., K.1, pick up and K. the next thread between sts., repeat from * across row, ending last st. K. 1.
Repeat the 4 rows of pattern for entire dress.
Work 112 rows even to shoulder.
On next row work across 13 sts., bind off 40 sts. for neck opening.
Work 13 sts. to end of row. On next row cast on 40 sts. over those bound off.
Continue to work even (66 sts.) for 112 rows for back, bind off.
Sleeve-
Starting 3 inches from bottom of bodice, pick up 106 sts., ending 3 inches from other end of underarm, work in pattern, decreasing 3 sts. each side every 10 rows 4 times (24 sts.), (decrease by K. 2 sts together two times, then slip the first st. over the second st.), then decrease in same manner every 8 rows 4 times, then every 6 rows 4 times, 34 sts. remaining.
Work even for 30 rows, bind off. Sew underarm seams.
Skirt-
Starting at waist, cast on 138 sts., work in pattern.
Work 2 inches even, then increase 1 st. each side every other row 33 times (keeping pattern even) (204 sts. on needle).
Now divide in 3 panels (68 sts. in each panel).
Work each gore seperate increasing 1 st. each side every 4th row 21 times.
Work even until panel measures 20 inches or desired length (allowing about 4 inches for stretch).
Work other two panels the same. Sew seams by weaving between single threads of edge.
Crochet beading at top of skirt for elastic, sew bodice over beading. Crochet picot edge around bottom of skirt and sleeves. Crochet around neck to shape, then work picot edge. See photo at
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Opera/8707/minerva34_bride.jpg
Good Luck and Congratulations! ~-~
You can buy a book from this site -- http://www.randomhouse.com/crown/catalog/display.pperl?isbn=9780307346407
3 patterns for sale here -- http://www.yesterknits.com/
"MARINA- As lovely as the royal princess for whom it is named. A cobwebby lace design knitted on large needles in an incredibly short length of time. In White Velveen it is the conventional bridal gown - in the brilliant velveen colors it is suitable for many other events."
Velveen Bridal Dress
Size 16
Materials:
1 pair M. M. No. 7 [as in 7mm diameter] Wooden Needles
1 No. 4 Steel Crochet Hook
Minerva Velveen White, No.1100, 8 balls
Scale:
2 knots to 1 inch
Bodice, Front-
Cast on 66 sts. P. 1 row. Pattern is worked on a multiple of 4sts. plus 2 sts.
Row 1- K. st., * pick up and K. next thread between sts., K. 1 st., pick up and K. next thread between sts., slip 1 st., K. 2 sts., pass slip st. over the K. 2 together, repeat from * across row, ending last st. K. 1.
Row 2- and all even rows, Purl (66 sts.)
Row 3- K. 1st., * slip 1st., K. 2 together, pass slip st. over the K. 2 together, pick up and K. the next thread between sts., K.1, pick up and K. the next thread between sts., repeat from * across row, ending last st. K. 1.
Repeat the 4 rows of pattern for entire dress.
Work 112 rows even to shoulder.
On next row work across 13 sts., bind off 40 sts. for neck opening.
Work 13 sts. to end of row. On next row cast on 40 sts. over those bound off.
Continue to work even (66 sts.) for 112 rows for back, bind off.
Sleeve-
Starting 3 inches from bottom of bodice, pick up 106 sts., ending 3 inches from other end of underarm, work in pattern, decreasing 3 sts. each side every 10 rows 4 times (24 sts.), (decrease by K. 2 sts together two times, then slip the first st. over the second st.), then decrease in same manner every 8 rows 4 times, then every 6 rows 4 times, 34 sts. remaining.
Work even for 30 rows, bind off. Sew underarm seams.
Skirt-
Starting at waist, cast on 138 sts., work in pattern.
Work 2 inches even, then increase 1 st. each side every other row 33 times (keeping pattern even) (204 sts. on needle).
Now divide in 3 panels (68 sts. in each panel).
Work each gore seperate increasing 1 st. each side every 4th row 21 times.
Work even until panel measures 20 inches or desired length (allowing about 4 inches for stretch).
Work other two panels the same. Sew seams by weaving between single threads of edge.
Crochet beading at top of skirt for elastic, sew bodice over beading. Crochet picot edge around bottom of skirt and sleeves. Crochet around neck to shape, then work picot edge. See photo at
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Opera/8707/minerva34_bride.jpg
Good Luck and Congratulations! ~-~
$500 size charge for wedding dress?
Anonymous
I bought my wedding dress last week and was surprised when they told me the designer charged $500 for my size.
If it was for additional fabric, I suppose that makes sense, but the charge was because my size is particularly small.
The original dress cost is $5,900, which seems quite high enough already to me.
Can someone please explain how they justify charging $500 for using less fabric than normal?
Thanks, Rebecca
The thing is- I'm not paying for alterations with the $500- it's added to the dress cost.
Alterations costs make sense, but they haven't even ordered the dress yet, so I don't see how it costs $500 to order size 00 instead of size 6.
(I won't have alterations done until the dress comes in around November.)
Answer
It's because you're off the scale for the existing pattern, and they're going to have to have a patternmaker make a new one in your size. When they make patterns, they choose the middle of their size range -- to use the small-medium-large side range, the pattern would be made in a medium size, and then graded by a system of rules to turn the size medium pattern into sizes small and large. Or sometimes into extra small, small, large and extra large. Unfortunately, the sizes extra small is likely to be too small in the shoulders and neckline by standard grading rules, and the extra large will likely be too large in the shoulders and neckline for a person wearing this size. (This, btw, is why you see a lot of plus size people wearing tops with necklines that are way too large, and shoulder seems that are halfway to their elbows -- the patterns have been "overgraded").
Rather than deal with the poor fit from overgrading the current pattern down in size, the gown maker has chosen to protect its reputation by not going outside the size range where they know they have good fit by making a new size range of patterns to deal with those few special orders. You're paying for part of that patternmaking cost -- that's the $500 charge. And your pattern will likely be cut by hand by a sample room, rather than be a production cutting. Again incurring extra costs to make the gown your size.
In fact, people who are outside the usual range of sizes can often have the garment they want in their size cheaper by having a gown custom sewn than by the method you've chosen... buying a gown off the rack, having to have a new pattern made, and then having to have the finished gown altered.
It's because you're off the scale for the existing pattern, and they're going to have to have a patternmaker make a new one in your size. When they make patterns, they choose the middle of their size range -- to use the small-medium-large side range, the pattern would be made in a medium size, and then graded by a system of rules to turn the size medium pattern into sizes small and large. Or sometimes into extra small, small, large and extra large. Unfortunately, the sizes extra small is likely to be too small in the shoulders and neckline by standard grading rules, and the extra large will likely be too large in the shoulders and neckline for a person wearing this size. (This, btw, is why you see a lot of plus size people wearing tops with necklines that are way too large, and shoulder seems that are halfway to their elbows -- the patterns have been "overgraded").
Rather than deal with the poor fit from overgrading the current pattern down in size, the gown maker has chosen to protect its reputation by not going outside the size range where they know they have good fit by making a new size range of patterns to deal with those few special orders. You're paying for part of that patternmaking cost -- that's the $500 charge. And your pattern will likely be cut by hand by a sample room, rather than be a production cutting. Again incurring extra costs to make the gown your size.
In fact, people who are outside the usual range of sizes can often have the garment they want in their size cheaper by having a gown custom sewn than by the method you've chosen... buying a gown off the rack, having to have a new pattern made, and then having to have the finished gown altered.
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